вторник, 14 апреля 2009 г.

A Few Important Kazakh Traditions

April 15, 2009

This is a short list of a few Kazakh traditions that I have been fortunate enough to participate in over the last year and a half. The actual number of Kazakh traditions probably runs close to a thousand, but thankfully most of those were only practiced by the Kazakhs of several centuries ago, so now you only really have to keep track of about ten major celebrations and a handful of codes involving with greetings and who sits where at the dinner table. As I experience more parties, I will add more entries.

1. Besik Toy:
The Besik Toy, literally the Cradle Party, traditionally takes place around forty days after the birth of the child when the baby is symbolically placed in the crib for the first time by the grandmother. She straps the baby down so tight it’s a wonder the kid can breathe, waves a lit match over the baby to get rid of any evil spirits, and then covers the crib with several scarves. These scarves not only help the baby sleep better by creating a kind of tent, but also have a symbolic meaning depending on their color and design. The besik itself is really ingenious. Not only does the baby stay extremely snug and warm due to the fact that he or she cannot move, but there is no need to worry about the baby waking up in the middle of the night for a diaper change. Instead of diapers, parents attach a small wooden, catheter type thing to the baby and if they have to pee in the middle of the night, it all goes down into a plastic bottle under the cradle. Anyway, after the baby has been put snuggly into its crib there is the standard dastarhan, the big feast of Beshparmak or plov that involves a lot of eating, and of course a lot of drinking. I still do not quite understand why they would have such big party with toasting, etc. when the guest of honor has no idea about what is going on, but I guess the party is more for the parents.

2. Tocay Kecer
Tocay Kecer means “the cutting of the fetters. It is a celebration of the baby learning to walk and thus is usually on or around the baby’s first birthday. During the celebration, a multi-colored string, symbolizing that there are both good and bad times in one’s life, is tied between the feet of the baby and then cut by a respected member of the community. The person who cut the string then leads the baby on a short lap around the room while reciting a traditional prayer for good luck that goes like this…

Тосауыңды кесейын
Кермеуiңдi шешеiн
Қаз- қаз балам, қаз балам
К,адам басан, мез болам
Тағы, Тағы баса ғой!
Тақымыңды жаз балам
Қаз баса ғой қарағым
Құтты болсын қадамың

The respected person who cuts the string and says the prayer is usually financially successful and has many children, though this is not always the case. For example, during a demonstration Tocay Kecer put on for a seminar on Cultural Lessons, I was the one who cut the string. The baby was the little sister of one of my students, and even though the child had already had a Tocay Kecer, the parents treated it just like the real thing. We even exchanged gifts, as tradition requires. I gave the baby a very stylish raincoat, and the parents gave me a new suit! Furthermore, I must have done an all right job on the Kazakh prayer, because my counterpart has told me that other families are requesting my services, despite the fact that I am not particularly financially successful, no do I have any children.

Finally, after the lap, the baby is then instructed to choose one of three items, a tenge bill, a book, or a pen. The item the baby chooses supposedly gives a hint as to the child’s future profession. If the baby chooses the tenge that means that the baby will be in business, the book means that the baby will be a teacher or a poet, and the pen means that they might be a writer. Of course, the kid could care less what they pick up so the parent usually just pushes them toward a certain item, just as they will push them to a certain career later on.

3. Yuleny Toy
The wedding party is definitely the biggest of the celebrations that I have attended here in Kazakhstan. The yuleny toy is one the second day of the wedding festivities and is the grand finale celebration. The party begins with the bride, groom, and several close friends driving around the city in a heavily decorated limousine followed by several other cars. As they drive around, the group stops at several of the cities important landmarks. In Kyzylorda these include the Korkyt-Ata monument, the central square, and of course, the mosque, and at each stop they all get out, take pictures and make toasts to the new couple. After the tour around town they then head to the restaurant where the rest of their family and friends are waiting. The wedding party is huge, even by Kazakh standards. I guess it is a good thing that most Kazakhs get married so young. If they got married when they were 29 or 30 instead of when they were 19 or 20, or else they would never able to afford or stay awake for all the festivities. As much fun as the party is, the eating in dancing is only a small part of why the party lasts for so long. In truth the wedding party takes several hours because, as per tradition, everyone must give a toast. Fortunately, however there is a protocol that saves time and keeps anyone from suffering from alcohol poisoning. During the toasting the guests come forward as a table and each person gives a short toast. Only after everyone at the table has given their toast does everyone, including the rest of the party guests take a drink. This is important because it keeps the number of shots down to a more manageable number like 9 to 12, which when combined with Beshbarmak is almost negligible. Then after the toast is done, the people at the table all dance together for a song before the next group comes up. Finally, when the last person at the last table as given their toast, everyone stands up and starts dancing, or stumbles on home, rather drunk and extremely full. I guess it is a good thing they got it all on videotape.