June 16, 2008
I know that it has been a long time between updates, but I hope that these recent posts will satisfy. For the last two weeks I have been working at a summer camp in Alga, a small village in the northwest of Kazakhstan that is located near the city of Aktobe. The weather was wonderful, and the people very friendly, but unfortunately internet was scarce, so I had to wait until I returned to the big city of Kyzylorda before I could share my experiences.
The camp was great because it was a kind of reunion for my training group. Two of our friends from other sites came down to Kyzylorda first, and then the four of us went together to Alga. The train ride was hell. We were in Platzcar because it was cheaper, but this turned out to be a mistake. Our window would not go down so we just lay there and baked for nineteen hours, all while being stared at by every other occupant of the car. Seriously, I think sweated for at least twelve hours straight before nighttime finally brought relief. Eventually though, we made up to Alga where our friend Emiko was their to meet us with her counterpart Roman. The sanitorium we would be staying at was not quite ready yet so we first went to Emiko’s house to shower and have tea. A big bonus was that Emiko had somehow made Chocolate Chip cookies that unfortunately disappeared within three hours. We were soon settled in the sanitorum, and then were given the grand tour of the village that took all of 45 minutes. The school that Emiko works at was very nice, and conveniently located, and while it was definitely not the social scene that Kyzylorda was, Alga had everything that was necessary, including a rather nice bakery. The next day was Sunday, and it was the day we were to meet our host country counterparts and begin preparations for lessons. My counterpart was named Larissa, a middle aged Russian woman who was very friendly but not very active in planning or in class. At first I thought that maybe this was because she did not like me or that her English was bad, but I eventually found out that neither was the case. Rather, she simply wanted a native speaker to do most of the talking and enjoyed seeing what a young person like myself could come up with. The camp began that Monday with an opening ceremony and presentations by the volunteers. I was obligated to perform my fake Irish jig and fortunately no one was the wiser, and we also performed some demonstrations about the sports we would teach the kids during the subsequent two weeks. We then got together in homerooms, made introductions and chose which countries we wanted to be for the next two weeks. The kids at first were more inclined towards Canada, but I was able to convince them that Ireland was cooler, and they quickly became very nationalistic Orangemen.
The camp days were very long and tiring, but a lot of fun. Every morning we taught two hours of English class followed by two hours of American sports and games. All of us volunteers quickly found our niche. Some found a home making friendship bracelets, others teaching kickball. I myself, became head dodgeball instructor and spent the last two weeks happily instructing the students on the finer points of Battleball and teaching them how to properly use your shoulder to throw the power ball. Unfortunately, as good as my students did in class, they did not earn that many points in the competition for points, and so at the end of the two weeks we found ourselves near the bottom in the Camp Olympics. Still, I was very proud of my kids, who not only made a great deal of progress in class, but were also very enthusiastic about being Team Ireland. Besides teaching the students we were also expected to spend some one on one time with our counterparts after lunch. Most of this was spent lesson planning, but we also gave presentations on games and activities and instructed some of them on the use of the communicative teaching method. We also usually found ourselves busy in the evenings as well, either with pick up basketball games or Konocks at Emiko’s parent’s and counterpart’s house. Thus, when bedtime finally arrived I slept like a log.
Still, the vacation was not all work. Over the weekend we got to go into the city of Aktobe, which like Kyzylorda is an oil town, only even more so due to its proximity to the big oil fields in the northwest. While in many ways it has a similar appearance to Kyzylorda, it definitely was a lot bigger and we had to take the bus almost everywhere we went because the distances were so great.
Eventually however, the camp came to an end I was sorry that it would mean saying goodbye to all of my friends and all of my students. Still, parting was not too bad, because I know that I will see them again soon. On the 26th I am going to head up to Ust-Komen where we are all getting together again for another camp, and afterwards there might even be an opportunity for us to do some responsibility free sightseeing around Kazakhstan. Also, I must admit that I was a little homesick for Kyzylorda towards the end, and I was happy to see my desert outpost again when I got off the train yesterday. I stepped off the train, breathed in the scorching hot air, began to sweat like crazy and realized that a great summer was only beginning.
понедельник, 16 июня 2008 г.
How to Survive a Kazak Dinner Party
June 5, 2008
I have talked about going to parties before in other posts, but I do not think that I have gone into enough detail to give a true picture of the fascinating social institution that is the Kazak dinner party. Kazak dinner parties are also known as Konocks or Dasterhans because Konock is the Kazak word for guest and Dasterhan is Kazak for table cloth or spread. These parties always follow the same formula. The first course is the salad, which is usually my favorite because there are at least three different kinds, and you are guaranteed to have fresh vegetables other than potatoes. This is followed by the main course which is usually either Beshparmak or Plov. Then, there is sometimes a short break for digestion and to clean the table before tea with desserts and fruit. Of course, it would not be a Kazak party if drinking was not involved. Throughout the dinner, eating is occasionally interrupted by a series of toasts, and these toasts can really lengthen the evening because every person has to give one. Like the dinner party itself, toast giving is pretty formulaic. You thank the host, offer him general wishes for good health and happiness, tell everyone that you are drinking for friendship or peace, etc. and then take a shot of vodka. If you have a good toast master that keeps things moving along, toasting can be kind of fun, but it can be real stressful when you are still learning Kazak and struggling to come up with something original to say, a process made even more difficult if your toast comes late in the festivities. Also, guests are often expected to give some sort of performance like singing a song or maybe even dancing. After everyone has toasted and had enough chai the meal draws to a close, but not before the oldest male guest at the table has performed the prayer. Even then, the party is not necessarily over, and many konocks are followed by dancing in the living room or even in some cases, Karaoke.
Having laid out the general formula then I offer the following advice for surviving the Kazak dinner party.
1. Skip lunch. You will eat so much food at the Kazak dinner party that not only will you make up for not eating earlier, but you might not even need breakfast the next day. Not only are the main courses gigantic, but there are tons of other things to nibble on throughout the evening, like nuts, salads, cheeses, meats, and fruits so I guarantee that you will be full.
2. Eat a lot. Do not worry about eating too much, the food is delicious, healthy, and you can always go to the gym tomorrow. Furthermore, your host will continuously tell you to eat, eat, and you risk hurting their feelings if you do not. Finally, the fuller the stomach the less likely you are to get embarrassingly drunk of the seven or eight shots you will be expected to take.
3. Learn a little Kazak. Even if you are fluent in Russian, Kazak toasts need to be made in Kazak. You do not need to learn that much though. As I mentioned, toasts are formulaic and going with the standard often goes over a lot better than trying to speak from the heart.
4. Have a talent
As I mentioned before, guests are often expected to sing or offer some other entertainment, and it is best if that skill is genuine. For example, last week in Alga, my so-called friends told everyone that I could do an Irish jig, and so I was then obligated to perform a farcical imitation. Fortunately, thanks to the fact that they had never seen the genuine article, and their belief that everyone of Irish ancestry knows how to do it, my Kazak audience bought it hook, line, and sinker. Still, it would have been much better if I could actually perform the real dance, or if, like one of the other volunteers in attendance, I could sing beautiful Kazak and Russian songs.
I hope people find it helpful, even if they might never have need for it. Hopefully though, you will have the chance to put it into use, because while the toasting can be tedious, the food is delicious, and the Konock or Dasterhan is one of the most interesting and important cultural experiences to be had in Kazakhstan.
I have talked about going to parties before in other posts, but I do not think that I have gone into enough detail to give a true picture of the fascinating social institution that is the Kazak dinner party. Kazak dinner parties are also known as Konocks or Dasterhans because Konock is the Kazak word for guest and Dasterhan is Kazak for table cloth or spread. These parties always follow the same formula. The first course is the salad, which is usually my favorite because there are at least three different kinds, and you are guaranteed to have fresh vegetables other than potatoes. This is followed by the main course which is usually either Beshparmak or Plov. Then, there is sometimes a short break for digestion and to clean the table before tea with desserts and fruit. Of course, it would not be a Kazak party if drinking was not involved. Throughout the dinner, eating is occasionally interrupted by a series of toasts, and these toasts can really lengthen the evening because every person has to give one. Like the dinner party itself, toast giving is pretty formulaic. You thank the host, offer him general wishes for good health and happiness, tell everyone that you are drinking for friendship or peace, etc. and then take a shot of vodka. If you have a good toast master that keeps things moving along, toasting can be kind of fun, but it can be real stressful when you are still learning Kazak and struggling to come up with something original to say, a process made even more difficult if your toast comes late in the festivities. Also, guests are often expected to give some sort of performance like singing a song or maybe even dancing. After everyone has toasted and had enough chai the meal draws to a close, but not before the oldest male guest at the table has performed the prayer. Even then, the party is not necessarily over, and many konocks are followed by dancing in the living room or even in some cases, Karaoke.
Having laid out the general formula then I offer the following advice for surviving the Kazak dinner party.
1. Skip lunch. You will eat so much food at the Kazak dinner party that not only will you make up for not eating earlier, but you might not even need breakfast the next day. Not only are the main courses gigantic, but there are tons of other things to nibble on throughout the evening, like nuts, salads, cheeses, meats, and fruits so I guarantee that you will be full.
2. Eat a lot. Do not worry about eating too much, the food is delicious, healthy, and you can always go to the gym tomorrow. Furthermore, your host will continuously tell you to eat, eat, and you risk hurting their feelings if you do not. Finally, the fuller the stomach the less likely you are to get embarrassingly drunk of the seven or eight shots you will be expected to take.
3. Learn a little Kazak. Even if you are fluent in Russian, Kazak toasts need to be made in Kazak. You do not need to learn that much though. As I mentioned, toasts are formulaic and going with the standard often goes over a lot better than trying to speak from the heart.
4. Have a talent
As I mentioned before, guests are often expected to sing or offer some other entertainment, and it is best if that skill is genuine. For example, last week in Alga, my so-called friends told everyone that I could do an Irish jig, and so I was then obligated to perform a farcical imitation. Fortunately, thanks to the fact that they had never seen the genuine article, and their belief that everyone of Irish ancestry knows how to do it, my Kazak audience bought it hook, line, and sinker. Still, it would have been much better if I could actually perform the real dance, or if, like one of the other volunteers in attendance, I could sing beautiful Kazak and Russian songs.
I hope people find it helpful, even if they might never have need for it. Hopefully though, you will have the chance to put it into use, because while the toasting can be tedious, the food is delicious, and the Konock or Dasterhan is one of the most interesting and important cultural experiences to be had in Kazakhstan.
воскресенье, 1 июня 2008 г.
Birthdays and Changes
May 26, 2008
I used to think, as many people probably do, that turning twenty-three is nothing special. After all, no milestone like the right to vote or to purchase alcohol accompanies a person’s twenty-third birthday. However, I have recently decided that the twenty-third birthday has been grossly undervalued and that it might actually be the most important birthday of all. A person’s twenty-third year is usually the first time that they really do anything that is unique or expresses their individuality. In America at least, learning to drive, voting, and even graduating from high school are all achievements that are based on societal expectation rather than personal choice or ambition. At twenty-three however, people truly begin to live their own lives. They decide what it is they want to do and set out to do it. Whether that means entering the workforce or going onto graduate school, the choice is one’s own.
You may disagree with my argument for the importance of the twenty-third birthday, but I would just like to say that for me it probably was one of most important and fun birthdays I have ever had. First, it was celebration of my first major individualistic decision of my adult life, joining the Peace Corps. This was also, the first time that I have ever celebrated my birthday outside of the United States or away from my parents. Fortunately however, I was able to celebrate with twelve of my newest best friends, both volunteers and host country nationals, and my Kazak host family. My birthday marked nearly six months at site, and looking around the table I realized how lucky I was to have so many local friends and such an awesome host family. My family held a traditional Kazak dastarhan/birthday party with lots of food, including Zhanat Apa’s monte and toasting. Then I found out that my friends had dedicated a music video to me on the local television station. On purpose, they had chosen my least favorite Kazak song, but I was still touched. Also, I know that in four months I will have my chance for revenge.
As I mentioned previously, turning twenty-three has brought with it a major change. I am now living by myself! Last Monday I agreed to rent this very nice two-room apartment about six blocks from my college and I moved in yesterday. This is the first time that I have really lived by myself. I have to admit that at first I was a little worried about moving out. I was a little concerned about upsetting my host family, but my biggest worry was definitely about food. I am glad to say however, that my worries have so far proven to be unfounded. I have so far successfully made both stir-fry and Denver omelets, and am beginning to feel much more confident around the kitchen. The apartment itself is beautiful. I really lucked out. I have two rooms of a four-bedroom apartment because the landlady lives in Astana and uses the other two rooms as storage, but still it is a really great situation. The rooms are big and well kept and I even have a washing machine. In fact, the only real drawback is water. Due to the state of the infrastructure in Kyzylorda and the fact that I live on the third floor apartment I only get water between 11:00 PM-1:00 AM and then from 6:30AM-9:30 AM, so I keep several five gallon jugs for the other times. Unfortunately, this lack of water means that my washing machine is useless most of the time, but I have gotten it to work a few times. So friends, if you are in the neighborhood please drop by, my couch is very comfortable and you can tell me what you think about my cooking.
I used to think, as many people probably do, that turning twenty-three is nothing special. After all, no milestone like the right to vote or to purchase alcohol accompanies a person’s twenty-third birthday. However, I have recently decided that the twenty-third birthday has been grossly undervalued and that it might actually be the most important birthday of all. A person’s twenty-third year is usually the first time that they really do anything that is unique or expresses their individuality. In America at least, learning to drive, voting, and even graduating from high school are all achievements that are based on societal expectation rather than personal choice or ambition. At twenty-three however, people truly begin to live their own lives. They decide what it is they want to do and set out to do it. Whether that means entering the workforce or going onto graduate school, the choice is one’s own.
You may disagree with my argument for the importance of the twenty-third birthday, but I would just like to say that for me it probably was one of most important and fun birthdays I have ever had. First, it was celebration of my first major individualistic decision of my adult life, joining the Peace Corps. This was also, the first time that I have ever celebrated my birthday outside of the United States or away from my parents. Fortunately however, I was able to celebrate with twelve of my newest best friends, both volunteers and host country nationals, and my Kazak host family. My birthday marked nearly six months at site, and looking around the table I realized how lucky I was to have so many local friends and such an awesome host family. My family held a traditional Kazak dastarhan/birthday party with lots of food, including Zhanat Apa’s monte and toasting. Then I found out that my friends had dedicated a music video to me on the local television station. On purpose, they had chosen my least favorite Kazak song, but I was still touched. Also, I know that in four months I will have my chance for revenge.
As I mentioned previously, turning twenty-three has brought with it a major change. I am now living by myself! Last Monday I agreed to rent this very nice two-room apartment about six blocks from my college and I moved in yesterday. This is the first time that I have really lived by myself. I have to admit that at first I was a little worried about moving out. I was a little concerned about upsetting my host family, but my biggest worry was definitely about food. I am glad to say however, that my worries have so far proven to be unfounded. I have so far successfully made both stir-fry and Denver omelets, and am beginning to feel much more confident around the kitchen. The apartment itself is beautiful. I really lucked out. I have two rooms of a four-bedroom apartment because the landlady lives in Astana and uses the other two rooms as storage, but still it is a really great situation. The rooms are big and well kept and I even have a washing machine. In fact, the only real drawback is water. Due to the state of the infrastructure in Kyzylorda and the fact that I live on the third floor apartment I only get water between 11:00 PM-1:00 AM and then from 6:30AM-9:30 AM, so I keep several five gallon jugs for the other times. Unfortunately, this lack of water means that my washing machine is useless most of the time, but I have gotten it to work a few times. So friends, if you are in the neighborhood please drop by, my couch is very comfortable and you can tell me what you think about my cooking.
суббота, 24 мая 2008 г.
What's in a Name?
May 12, 2008
A name is one life’s most valuable possessions. Our names are the foundation of our professional and personal reputations, and are an important part of our personal and professional identities. You might be Mr. Smith at work, but John with your friends, and your behavior subtly changes to fit the alias. Furthermore, names are often an important part of one’s cultural heritage, and thus Kazak names are very different from American ones in regards to the structure and the names themselves.
First, when introducing yourself in Kazakhstan, you give your last name first rather than the American custom of giving your first name first. Also, while in America people have at least two to three given names, in Kazakhstan there is only one- the first name. The “middle name” is just a patronymic. For example, had I been born in Kazakhstan, my name would not be McKenzie Lawrence Mullally Clark, rather it would be Clark McKenzie Daviduli, as “uli” means “son of”. Thus, it is probably much easier for parents to name their children here in Kazakhstan since two of the three are just “fill-in-the-blank.”
The structure is not the only thing that is different about Kazak names, however. American names like John, Sara, or Kimberly do not usually mean anything, even if they do have a long cultural or family history, but Kazak names can actually be translated. Some common names are Aigarum which means “splendid moon”, Temirzhon or “iron soul, Karakoz which means “black eyes” Tolganai or full moon, and Bakhyt, which means happiness. In class, when I am not struggling to say the name in the first place, I often like to think about what it means, and if they have actually live up to their name. Still, even if there are not “iron souls” in my class, I count myself lucky that none of my students deserve the name Akhmak, which means stupid.
A name is one life’s most valuable possessions. Our names are the foundation of our professional and personal reputations, and are an important part of our personal and professional identities. You might be Mr. Smith at work, but John with your friends, and your behavior subtly changes to fit the alias. Furthermore, names are often an important part of one’s cultural heritage, and thus Kazak names are very different from American ones in regards to the structure and the names themselves.
First, when introducing yourself in Kazakhstan, you give your last name first rather than the American custom of giving your first name first. Also, while in America people have at least two to three given names, in Kazakhstan there is only one- the first name. The “middle name” is just a patronymic. For example, had I been born in Kazakhstan, my name would not be McKenzie Lawrence Mullally Clark, rather it would be Clark McKenzie Daviduli, as “uli” means “son of”. Thus, it is probably much easier for parents to name their children here in Kazakhstan since two of the three are just “fill-in-the-blank.”
The structure is not the only thing that is different about Kazak names, however. American names like John, Sara, or Kimberly do not usually mean anything, even if they do have a long cultural or family history, but Kazak names can actually be translated. Some common names are Aigarum which means “splendid moon”, Temirzhon or “iron soul, Karakoz which means “black eyes” Tolganai or full moon, and Bakhyt, which means happiness. In class, when I am not struggling to say the name in the first place, I often like to think about what it means, and if they have actually live up to their name. Still, even if there are not “iron souls” in my class, I count myself lucky that none of my students deserve the name Akhmak, which means stupid.
воскресенье, 4 мая 2008 г.
Some Things Change, Some Things Stay the Same
April 24th, 2008
Living in a different country with a very different culture is all about personal growth and making adjustments. There are adjustments to the food you eat, to the types of clothes you wear, even to some extent your personal values. Furthermore, you would be surprised at which ones do the shifting. Some, which back home seemed immutable, are molded to fit the situation at work or at home, while others, which in familiar territory were vague suddenly become much more resolute.
An example of such a shift is my views regarding cheating. After growing up in America, and attending a University with a very strict honor code, I was a firm believer in the idea that cheating is wrong under any circumstances and that students who engage in it should be harshly punished. However, things are quite different in Kazakhstan. Students openly “help” each other on tests and assignments even if it is a major test and the teacher is standing right in front of them. At first I tried to maintain my strict philosophy, but I soon realized that the problem was endemic and nothing I did or said would change my students behavior. Thus, I began to adapt and compromise. I still do not accept my students’ cheating on assignments, but I now only give assignments that they have to work on cooperatively to complete. In this way, I can teach without feeling like I am compromising my integrity. Some may feel that I surrendered to the status quo rather quickly, and they are probably right, but my acclimatization was made easier by the fact that I have come to realize that the almost forces the students to cheat if they want to be successful. As the year draws to a close, some students face ten major exams on top of portfolio preparation, a workload that inevitably leads to cheating or a nervous breakdown.
On the other hand, since coming to Kazakhstan I have become even more firm and outspoken in my views on women’s rights and gender roles, rather than adjust to the more patriarchal views held by many in this country. One of the biggest influences on this evolution has been teaching at the college. First, nearly all of my students are women. In fact, of the 150 students I teach during the week, only four are men, and I find statistic a little troubling as it reveals that many in Kazakhstan still hold onto the notion that gender is an important factor in a person’s occupation. Still, the boy-girl ratio or my classes has only been a small factor in my becoming a bigger fan of Gloria Steinam and bell hooks. A much larger reason has been hearing some of the things that come out of my students’ mouths. For example, a few weeks ago I taught a class on jobs and occupation. After the vocabulary and sentence exercises, I thought a little cross culture activity would be fun. I put a venn diagram up on the board and had my students decide what jobs were for men, what jobs were for women, and what jobs were for both. Some choices, such as putting nurse with women, and policeman and with men were not unexpected and were similar to points of view held by many Americans. They were even good about putting doctor, lawyer, and politician in the both column. Other choices though were baffling, such as their claim that women could or should not be engineers, electricians, or soldiers to name a few. I was particularly surprised with their stance about soldiers, given the fact that the school is named after a famous woman soldier from WWII and there is a giant bust of her out in the courtyard. I asked them to explain their reasoning and they said, “Girls should not be out doing dangerous or dirty jobs, and are better off doing nice clean jobs and taking care of their children.” Now, that is not to say that it is a bad thing if a young woman sees marrying and having children as the ultimate aim in life or wishes to avoid occupations that are messy or physically demanding, but to make that claim for all women seemed a little much.
Life is the Peace Corps is certainly never boring and it requires a bit of personal transformation and adjustment in order to work effectively in one’s adopted community. Still, the last six months have served to remind me that one cannot, nor should they yield on everything. To be sure, in regards to certain things, it is important to hold as open and as pluralistic a mindset as possible. However, on other issues, one must hold firm to their values lest they risk losing themselves in the cause of cultural acceptance. It is this judgment of which issues to compromise on and on what issues to hold firm that makes the two years of service in the Peace Corps the single most defining experience for it’s volunteers. It is a singular time of discovery and growth when, using another culture as a mirror, we become aware of our true selves.
Living in a different country with a very different culture is all about personal growth and making adjustments. There are adjustments to the food you eat, to the types of clothes you wear, even to some extent your personal values. Furthermore, you would be surprised at which ones do the shifting. Some, which back home seemed immutable, are molded to fit the situation at work or at home, while others, which in familiar territory were vague suddenly become much more resolute.
An example of such a shift is my views regarding cheating. After growing up in America, and attending a University with a very strict honor code, I was a firm believer in the idea that cheating is wrong under any circumstances and that students who engage in it should be harshly punished. However, things are quite different in Kazakhstan. Students openly “help” each other on tests and assignments even if it is a major test and the teacher is standing right in front of them. At first I tried to maintain my strict philosophy, but I soon realized that the problem was endemic and nothing I did or said would change my students behavior. Thus, I began to adapt and compromise. I still do not accept my students’ cheating on assignments, but I now only give assignments that they have to work on cooperatively to complete. In this way, I can teach without feeling like I am compromising my integrity. Some may feel that I surrendered to the status quo rather quickly, and they are probably right, but my acclimatization was made easier by the fact that I have come to realize that the almost forces the students to cheat if they want to be successful. As the year draws to a close, some students face ten major exams on top of portfolio preparation, a workload that inevitably leads to cheating or a nervous breakdown.
On the other hand, since coming to Kazakhstan I have become even more firm and outspoken in my views on women’s rights and gender roles, rather than adjust to the more patriarchal views held by many in this country. One of the biggest influences on this evolution has been teaching at the college. First, nearly all of my students are women. In fact, of the 150 students I teach during the week, only four are men, and I find statistic a little troubling as it reveals that many in Kazakhstan still hold onto the notion that gender is an important factor in a person’s occupation. Still, the boy-girl ratio or my classes has only been a small factor in my becoming a bigger fan of Gloria Steinam and bell hooks. A much larger reason has been hearing some of the things that come out of my students’ mouths. For example, a few weeks ago I taught a class on jobs and occupation. After the vocabulary and sentence exercises, I thought a little cross culture activity would be fun. I put a venn diagram up on the board and had my students decide what jobs were for men, what jobs were for women, and what jobs were for both. Some choices, such as putting nurse with women, and policeman and with men were not unexpected and were similar to points of view held by many Americans. They were even good about putting doctor, lawyer, and politician in the both column. Other choices though were baffling, such as their claim that women could or should not be engineers, electricians, or soldiers to name a few. I was particularly surprised with their stance about soldiers, given the fact that the school is named after a famous woman soldier from WWII and there is a giant bust of her out in the courtyard. I asked them to explain their reasoning and they said, “Girls should not be out doing dangerous or dirty jobs, and are better off doing nice clean jobs and taking care of their children.” Now, that is not to say that it is a bad thing if a young woman sees marrying and having children as the ultimate aim in life or wishes to avoid occupations that are messy or physically demanding, but to make that claim for all women seemed a little much.
Life is the Peace Corps is certainly never boring and it requires a bit of personal transformation and adjustment in order to work effectively in one’s adopted community. Still, the last six months have served to remind me that one cannot, nor should they yield on everything. To be sure, in regards to certain things, it is important to hold as open and as pluralistic a mindset as possible. However, on other issues, one must hold firm to their values lest they risk losing themselves in the cause of cultural acceptance. It is this judgment of which issues to compromise on and on what issues to hold firm that makes the two years of service in the Peace Corps the single most defining experience for it’s volunteers. It is a singular time of discovery and growth when, using another culture as a mirror, we become aware of our true selves.
понедельник, 28 апреля 2008 г.
Getting Around Town
April 17, 2008
In regards to what makes a city a city, Greensboro, NC and Waco, TX are superior to Kyzylorda in several ways. They have taller buildings, more people, and an actual working public sanitation system. There is one important area however, in which Kyzylorda has them beat, reliable public transportation. In Kyzylorda, from 6AMto 8PM you have two main choices for getting around, buses or marshootkas. Marshootkas are basically slightly larger than normal minivans and are extremely uncomfortable. The conductors pack far more people in than there are seats so you are usually forced to stand and often find yourself awkwardly squished against several other people. Furthermore, you cannot even stand up straight and are forced to contort yourself just to fit inside in the first place. The crazy thing though, is that even though marshootkas are more awkward to ride in, they are actually more expensive than buses! In Kyzylorda, Marshootkas cost 35 tenge per ride, but the buses only cost 30 tenge! I know that they cannot fit as many people in as a bus can, no matter how hard they squeeze, and that the extra five tenge is supposed to make up some of the difference, but I figure that if I am going to subject myself to that sort of punishment willingly, they could at least give me a price break. One may wonder why I take Marshootkas if the buses are roomier and cheaper, but unfortunately buses do not frequent the outskirts of the city where I live, so usually I just have to bite the bullet and ride the marshootka.
Still, these cramped rides to work are not all bad and have had a few positive results. Primarily, I think it has made me more comfortable in large crowds and more willing to speak to complete strangers. Perhaps due in part to of geography and manifest destiny, but American’s are generally accustomed to and seek open spaces. Even in crowded cities, people try to maintain at least three feet of personal space. In Kazakhstan, though this idea of personal space does not really exist there is, it is measured in inches rather than feet. Thus, over the last few months I have been forced to get over my own personal space needs and as a result I now find myself more comfortable with new people both in regards to physical proximity or in making conversation, and while I have yet to make a lasting friendship with any of my dance partners on the number 15 bus, I would like to think it has perhaps made me a bit more outgoing.
In regards to what makes a city a city, Greensboro, NC and Waco, TX are superior to Kyzylorda in several ways. They have taller buildings, more people, and an actual working public sanitation system. There is one important area however, in which Kyzylorda has them beat, reliable public transportation. In Kyzylorda, from 6AMto 8PM you have two main choices for getting around, buses or marshootkas. Marshootkas are basically slightly larger than normal minivans and are extremely uncomfortable. The conductors pack far more people in than there are seats so you are usually forced to stand and often find yourself awkwardly squished against several other people. Furthermore, you cannot even stand up straight and are forced to contort yourself just to fit inside in the first place. The crazy thing though, is that even though marshootkas are more awkward to ride in, they are actually more expensive than buses! In Kyzylorda, Marshootkas cost 35 tenge per ride, but the buses only cost 30 tenge! I know that they cannot fit as many people in as a bus can, no matter how hard they squeeze, and that the extra five tenge is supposed to make up some of the difference, but I figure that if I am going to subject myself to that sort of punishment willingly, they could at least give me a price break. One may wonder why I take Marshootkas if the buses are roomier and cheaper, but unfortunately buses do not frequent the outskirts of the city where I live, so usually I just have to bite the bullet and ride the marshootka.
Still, these cramped rides to work are not all bad and have had a few positive results. Primarily, I think it has made me more comfortable in large crowds and more willing to speak to complete strangers. Perhaps due in part to of geography and manifest destiny, but American’s are generally accustomed to and seek open spaces. Even in crowded cities, people try to maintain at least three feet of personal space. In Kazakhstan, though this idea of personal space does not really exist there is, it is measured in inches rather than feet. Thus, over the last few months I have been forced to get over my own personal space needs and as a result I now find myself more comfortable with new people both in regards to physical proximity or in making conversation, and while I have yet to make a lasting friendship with any of my dance partners on the number 15 bus, I would like to think it has perhaps made me a bit more outgoing.
четверг, 10 апреля 2008 г.
A Quick Note About Food
April 8, 2007
For those of you who worry about whether Peace Corps volunteers are starving to death or suffering from malnutrition because we only eat meat potatoes, I hope that this post will set your minds at ease. While the Kazak diet is primarily meat and potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, and carrots, are also important fixtures in any Kazak meal. Furthermore, Kazak food is not the only thing we eat. Here in Kyzylorda, we also have the option to eat Uzbek, Korean, or Russian food too. To be sure, the Uzbek, Korean, and Russian cuisines have been Kazakized to some extent, but they still maintain most of their unique qualities, which is good because as they say, “variety is the spice of life.”
My two favorite Kazak dishes are definitely besparmak and Monte. besparmak, or “five fingers”, is a dish made of meat, potatoes, and onions, spread out on a large plate of wide, flat noodles. It is called “five fingers” because you eat it with your fingers, with everyone reaching out and grabbing pieces of meat, noodles, and onions from the shared plate. To wash this delicious and healthy meal down, you drink a concoction called sorpa, which is basically just piping hot meat broth. I know that this meal does not sound very healthy, but I swear that you feel 100 percent better than you did after eating it. Also, if you are thinking of ever coming to Kazakhstan, you are going to need to like it, because it is the national dish and at any party or “konnak” there is a fifty/fifty chance that besparmak will be served. Monte is my other favorite Kazak dish, probably because my host mom makes the best monte on the planet. Monte are basically steamed dumplings, but they are folded up differently and are usually larger. The monte are usually filled with meat and onions, and you eat them by the dozen with either ketchup or mayonnaise, delicious.
Besides besparmak and monte, the next most popular dish in Kazakhstan, at least here in the south is definitely palay, also known as plov. It is actually an Uzbek dish and is particularly popular here in the south because we are so close to the border. I do find it interesting and a little confusing that Kazak people will make derogatory remarks about Uzbeks while downing their food by the pound, but I guess that is one of those mysteries that has not yet revealed itself to me. palay is made of rice, carrots, and of course meat. Like besparmak, palay is eaten off of one collective plate but this time at least they give everyone large spoons. If I have one bad thing to say about palay it is that it is often kind of bland, as is the case with a lot of Kazak/Uzbek dishes, but with a bit of hot chili sauce mixed in, palay goes from ho-hum to awesome.
As one would expect after over 70 years of Soviet occupation, Russian food is also plentiful and popular in Kazakhstan, even in the south. My two favorite Russian foods are borscht and belashsee. I imagine everyone knows what Borscht is, a sort of beet stew with cabbage and potatoes, but there may be a few people who have never heard of nor tasted the belashee. Belashees are kind of like meat donuts. They are simply dough wrapped around a small roll of ground meat that is then dipped in oil and fried. A heart attack waiting to happen I know, but when eaten with a bowl of borscht they are part of a perfect lunch. Anyways, I usually work out in the afternoons, so I do not think I am too much at risk.
Finally, a cultural cuisine that is surprisingly popular here in Kyzylorda is Korean food, particularly the dish Kukci. It is a soup made up of noodles, diced meat, carrots, cabbage, tomatoes, and cucumbers, all simmering in a soy sauce broth. It quickly became one of our favorite dishes because it was the one way we could get fresh vegetables in our diet during the winter. It is also one of the spicer and saltier meals available. I was definitely was not expecting to get such a steady diet of Korean food in Kazakhstan, especially in Kyzylorda, but apparently area has a rather sizable Korean population, and in fact you cannot find Kukci outside of the Kyzylorda or South Kazakhstan oblasts.
Thus, as you can see are, we are not suffering from a lack of culinary choices at all, but in fact have a large variety of food at our fingertips. So if you come to visit, prepare to eat hardy that is, unless you are a vegetarian, and in that case you might starve.
For those of you who worry about whether Peace Corps volunteers are starving to death or suffering from malnutrition because we only eat meat potatoes, I hope that this post will set your minds at ease. While the Kazak diet is primarily meat and potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, and carrots, are also important fixtures in any Kazak meal. Furthermore, Kazak food is not the only thing we eat. Here in Kyzylorda, we also have the option to eat Uzbek, Korean, or Russian food too. To be sure, the Uzbek, Korean, and Russian cuisines have been Kazakized to some extent, but they still maintain most of their unique qualities, which is good because as they say, “variety is the spice of life.”
My two favorite Kazak dishes are definitely besparmak and Monte. besparmak, or “five fingers”, is a dish made of meat, potatoes, and onions, spread out on a large plate of wide, flat noodles. It is called “five fingers” because you eat it with your fingers, with everyone reaching out and grabbing pieces of meat, noodles, and onions from the shared plate. To wash this delicious and healthy meal down, you drink a concoction called sorpa, which is basically just piping hot meat broth. I know that this meal does not sound very healthy, but I swear that you feel 100 percent better than you did after eating it. Also, if you are thinking of ever coming to Kazakhstan, you are going to need to like it, because it is the national dish and at any party or “konnak” there is a fifty/fifty chance that besparmak will be served. Monte is my other favorite Kazak dish, probably because my host mom makes the best monte on the planet. Monte are basically steamed dumplings, but they are folded up differently and are usually larger. The monte are usually filled with meat and onions, and you eat them by the dozen with either ketchup or mayonnaise, delicious.
Besides besparmak and monte, the next most popular dish in Kazakhstan, at least here in the south is definitely palay, also known as plov. It is actually an Uzbek dish and is particularly popular here in the south because we are so close to the border. I do find it interesting and a little confusing that Kazak people will make derogatory remarks about Uzbeks while downing their food by the pound, but I guess that is one of those mysteries that has not yet revealed itself to me. palay is made of rice, carrots, and of course meat. Like besparmak, palay is eaten off of one collective plate but this time at least they give everyone large spoons. If I have one bad thing to say about palay it is that it is often kind of bland, as is the case with a lot of Kazak/Uzbek dishes, but with a bit of hot chili sauce mixed in, palay goes from ho-hum to awesome.
As one would expect after over 70 years of Soviet occupation, Russian food is also plentiful and popular in Kazakhstan, even in the south. My two favorite Russian foods are borscht and belashsee. I imagine everyone knows what Borscht is, a sort of beet stew with cabbage and potatoes, but there may be a few people who have never heard of nor tasted the belashee. Belashees are kind of like meat donuts. They are simply dough wrapped around a small roll of ground meat that is then dipped in oil and fried. A heart attack waiting to happen I know, but when eaten with a bowl of borscht they are part of a perfect lunch. Anyways, I usually work out in the afternoons, so I do not think I am too much at risk.
Finally, a cultural cuisine that is surprisingly popular here in Kyzylorda is Korean food, particularly the dish Kukci. It is a soup made up of noodles, diced meat, carrots, cabbage, tomatoes, and cucumbers, all simmering in a soy sauce broth. It quickly became one of our favorite dishes because it was the one way we could get fresh vegetables in our diet during the winter. It is also one of the spicer and saltier meals available. I was definitely was not expecting to get such a steady diet of Korean food in Kazakhstan, especially in Kyzylorda, but apparently area has a rather sizable Korean population, and in fact you cannot find Kukci outside of the Kyzylorda or South Kazakhstan oblasts.
Thus, as you can see are, we are not suffering from a lack of culinary choices at all, but in fact have a large variety of food at our fingertips. So if you come to visit, prepare to eat hardy that is, unless you are a vegetarian, and in that case you might starve.
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